|MIXING - The contents SILVER AND BINDER
are combined together inside the one packet. The mixed
powder should be placed in a non-porous container, i.e. glass, plastic,
or glazed ceramic BUT NOT METALLIC. A way to
remember how much water to add is simply start by adding
ONE DRIP TO EVERY GRAM of dry powder (NOTE:
drips from an eye dropper are a third to half the volume of a fat-drip from a
faucet). Allow powder to soak up
water then begin mixing around with finger or mini spatula. Next
pinch up the mix when it is quite dry but can lump all together,
move to the palm of hand and lightly moisten when needed and continue
kneading until the desired clay-like consistency is achieved. Generally
10 grams will need 4-5 minutes of kneading. Afterwards the mixed
clay should be allowed to MATURE before use by
allowing to set for 15 minutes wrapped in plastic cling film. Do not
allow to become too wet as it will become overly sticky and adhere to
skin. Making a slip should be mixed in a small cup with 50% more water.
We recommend that you do not use oils or glycerin when mixing the clay,
as those will inhibit the properties of the binder. The moisten silver
clay never 'sets' like cement, therefore hardened work-in-progress can
simply be wetted (albeit will take a longer from a fully dried clay),
but it will dissolve in water. Unused moist clay may be stored if closed
tightly in plastic cling wrap. Use only room temperature water, tap is
ok, best if distilled water is used.
|SHAPING - Kneading is important but under some
circumstance tiny air bubbles could become trapped in the folds, make
sure kneading is done with lots of squeezing. Also it is better
you flattened the clay down on a surface then cut out with a blade.
While working the clay will dry out if the humidity in the workarea is
less then 100%, therefore keep a wet cotton tip swab handy for
moisturizing. As SUGGESTION: You may want to
add in a few drips ~1:5 liquid soap to water to the moistened MCP.
This can reduce drying while working the clay and allow for ease in
carving after. If you're making an impression of another object onto the
clay a heavy oil may be used to coat the surface of that object then the
clay pressed onto that surface then released shortly thereafter.
After a shape is made coat with a slip paste to smoothen its surface.
This may be done by rubbing the surface with water on your finger to
smoothen out finger print impressions and fill cracks made by folds in
|DRYING - Air drying the clay is best if rested on a brick or
coated metal or nylon
mesh surface, especially if it has a decent surface area. Paper or
cardboard should not be used as they will bend and warp under the moist
clay. A smooth plastic or glass surface should not be used as uneven
drying will make the clay warp and crack. Using a hair blow drier
or mug warmer are methods of rapid dry but still be aware of the surface
the clay is upon. Do not use a hot blow gun and never place moist
or partially moist clay in kiln or use the torch. Once dried the the
clay's shape can be refined with the use of a cutting tool, knife, or
|FIRING - Your MCP can be fired atop a
stove or flame torch, but a kiln is highly recommended. Your pre-fired
clay or green-body must be completely dry of moisture before being fired
or blistering and excessive warping can occur. We recommend a kiln or high temp furnace over
a torch flame because there is better control of temperature versus the
unevenness of an open flame. Range top or stove top (natural gas open
air) firing will not attain temperature high enough to fuse the silver,
it will only burn away the binder. Firing time varies with the thickness of
the item and efficiency of the kiln or even-ness of the flame spread.
Small rapid heat furnaces will generally require 50% more hold time. A
higher firing temp will require only a slightly less firing time.
Pre-fired items should be placed in the kiln held at 600F for up to10 minutes
to burn away binder, then increase temperature to begin sintering. The
minimum hold temp is 1250F, with a max fire temp of 1680F. A hard fire
is to hold at the upper temperature range for an excess of 15 minutes. Rapid heating
quickly vaporize the binder, and the clay may flake, blister, pop
pieces off or crack. Small pieces of silver findings and wire as well as
other silver clay objects can be fused together when kiln fired at max
clay must be done in a ventilated area as the firing of metal clays
Imagine owning the philosophers stone? Rather
yet a philosophers powder in which you add water then burn in fire, and
finally emerge an object of solid silver. You now
have the power to transform mud into an object of fine
silver beauty. The main ingredient is pure silver metal, along
with organic binder and water. When the product is fully air-dried, and
fired at the appropriate temperature and time, the finished
product will have great strength, and will take a polish just as
any other silver metal object.
The purpose of the MCP?
MCP allows for artists to use silver clay in a
variety of different ways. A versatile clay with almost
indefinite shelf life, MCP is a value alternative enabling you to
make limited production runs or create larger
artistic sculpture while maximizing profit margin.
The advantage of metal clay
MCP only needs water to bring it to life. Even
hardened unused clay can be brought back to life with just a few
drops of water. If you have made a mistake such as your
work-in-progress got cracked or broke, you can make a thin clay
paste, and actually cement-together the pieces. Or if you
misspelled a chiseled out letter, just fill in with clay and
make it right this time! Or say you destroyed your
work-in-progress, simply dissolve it in a few drops of water
then you have clay once again. MCP has almost unlimited
shelf life. To prolong the effectiveness of the binder it should
always be kept in its bag and away from dampness.
Metal Clay Powder is non-poisonous, but then
again a lot of silver powder in your system isn't good; not for
anyone. Heating the clay will release volatile vapors that will sustain a flame
in open air. Artisans
should wear dusts mask and glasses if carving with a sharp
object, high speed rotary tool
or powered sander/grinder. Improperly fired clay can pop and send
chips flying. MCP (moist) should not
'stay' in contact with other metal surfaces except silver or
gold. The clay powder does not contain mercury, lead
...only metal is Silver. Don't burn plastics or melt away wax in
Recommended tools and equipment:
Kiln capable of holding temperature of 1250F
scale for weighing
dish for mixing
Board game pieces
Key ring fobs
Ink pen cases
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||~ More Facts and Tips ~
powder: is the most valued ingredient,
generally valued four times higher than market price for
silver. We developed a method to make and dry the silver
powders quickly and efficiently. The silver used in MCP is
at least 99.9% fine silver. The binder is made of a cellulose
fiber derivative and modified corn starch. MCP can be used in
conjunction with or as a slip with other available silver
clays. MCP will shrink during the drying phase as
water can contribute up to ten percent of the clay mass.
As it dries it will become smaller and denser up to 3%.
point: is above 1700F (1761F to be exact) however silver may appear to melt at a temp
just above 1500F. Small rapid heat burnout furnaces or mini
kilns are electric and have fully exposed heating coils and
insulated with a fiber board. These type of kilns during
ramp to 1680F may be hotter and cooler in areas of the
inside since 1680F is the temp of the thermocouple. Silver has the property of being the most
thermally conductive of all metals thus it heats or gets hotter
faster than anything else around it. MCP being fired will
produce smoke, soot, and sustain a flame just as any clays on market.
MCP never 'sets' like cement, therefore
work-in-progress can simply be moistened and reworked. MCP 96% silver weight.
Each pack of Metal Clay Powder contains 50 grams or 1.61 troy oz fine
Fire Shrinkage: The minimum fire temp is 1250F;
Pieces fired at this temp will experience about 12% linear
shrinkage however the fired object will have less strength
thus will be easily burnished but will easily scratch and
break when bended. Higher temperature firings i.e. 1680F and
longer hold temps e.g. 20 minutes or longer will yield the densest end
product with shrinkage ranging 20% to 25% linear. The higher
firing temp objects will be much harder than lower fire temp
objects. Large items such as sculptures and pieced thicker
than a small coin should be fired longer than the specified
time. Generally add 10 to 15 minutes of fire time for
every millimeter in thickness the item is.
Patinas: If you want to add a patina either with
sulfur or iodine, it is best if you hard fire your clay.
Clay objects fired at low or mid range temperatures are more
porous and will soak up external liquids. Liver of
sulfur and iodine toned clays that were not hard fired will
continue to coat over even long after it has been dried and
finished. A hard fire is necessary to avoid the
leaching of surface patina chemicals. Silver sulfide is the
most water insoluble substance known that can dissolve in
| Comparison of MCP to other silver clays of 50 grams sizes.|
||% Silver as supplied
||Firing temp / time
||Precious Metal Clay
||90% Ag -5g silver
||20min @ 1550F / 30 min @1450F
||Precious Metal Clay
||30min @ 1200F / 10 min @1400F
|Art Clay Silver
||30min @ 1200F / 10 min or 1400F
||100% Ag + 5% organic
||30min @ 1250F / 20 min or 1680F
A More Workable Clay?
Once you have mixed your MCP silver999, you can knead in a drip or two of
hand soap or Dawn© liquid detergent (a soap free of phosphates and bleach)
per gram of clay.
This will increase drying time a bit but more importantly the clay will be
softer more like hard cheese when fully dry allowing carving to be performed
with a less risk of breaking or chipping. Methyl cellulose: is a
paint thickener found at artists supply and craft stores. The addition of a
small pinch to your clay will make it soak more water and make it softer.
Adding methyl cellulose will make the clay shrink more on drying.
Distilled water: Not all bottled water is the same. Look for
distilled water at your grocery store. The distilled water hydrates the
binder best. Rain water is the next best. Bottled drinking water
for the most part is the same as tap water. Syringe applicator: You can
use a syringe as a slip applicator. Use a syringe of 5cc or better
without a needle. Pieces of left over clay are placed into the syringe
and plunger re applied. Add in water to the level of clay, cap the syringe and
set aside for a at least 2 days. This syringe applicator is useful for joining
two or more pieces of clay before or after being fired.
Make a Base Mold:
A base mold is a form at which you will use as a basis to make your clay
object on... similar to how a dressmaker use a form to measure patterns on.
The lowest cost base mold is made from ordinary beach sand. First you
should choose the sand, and sieve through a strainer to get the smallest
possible grain size. Further grinding in a (non-purpose) coffee mill or
with a mortar and pestle to make a finer sand. Wash this sand well in a pot, if possible boil the
sand to wash and rinse away all salts, and debris. Now dry the sand by heating
on stove or oven in a glass pot. Allow to cool then sieve this sand and place
in a jar for storage. To make the base mold, obtain methyl cellulose,
tapioca, or modified grain starch and one heaping tablespoon should be enough
for a coffee cup of sand. Add in small amounts of water until you can shape
the sand easily into the shape you desire. Allow this to dry then form your
metal clay around or on this sand mold and allow to dry on the mold. If
your metal clay object can easily be removed from the mold then take it off
prior to placing in kiln; if not then place the clay object including base
mold and fire at the required temperature for the metal clay. Once
cooled, the sand mold will fall to free flowing sand again at which can be
discarded. This is especially useful method when making hollow forms and
larger 3D objects. There are fancy other products available including hollow
glass spheres and carbon-based solids like wood dust which shrinks too, all work well, but nothing beats
Wood Workers and Carpenters: Imagine
Metallic Silver Inlay!
MCP can be
used as inlay. Since the binders are made of plant based products, the
clay will easily fuse hard to routed; either hand routed or laser routed
wood. Sand it down once dried and buff the silver along with the wood surface
then protect with linseed or a varnish. This of course requires no
burning, kiln, or firing and shrinkage around 7% a reapplication may be
Pottery & Plaster & Clay Artist:
MCP can be fired along with some pottery works, or
unfired as a coating for plaster. It may also work as an inlay for low
temperature cured polymer clay art. Imagine the luster of silver to give a
bas-relief a cameo appearance. Or s'grafitto with silver layers.
Silver Smiths' Metal Clay Powder (v1)was first introduced mid 2006 as the
first silver clay to be sold in powder form. It sold for
only half the price other commercially available ready made silver
clays. Version 2.1 ran the span of 2007 to 2009.|
From 2009 to 2013 Silver Smiths' Metal Clay Powder (v2.2) Indicative of
its 'MCP' label. The clay has put on bit of a tan... it appear darker
due to silver powders used with oxide layer. The change in binder allowed
for a very dense dried clay and fire more thorough in the
same amount of time for the piece. (v2.3) represented the
densest of greenbody and the hardest of low-fire clays..
The New MCP! Now called Metal Clay Powder SILVER 999, MCP
v3 & v3.1. This update comes with all
new packaging that is lightweight and takes up less space. A hybrid silver component
and an all new binder mixture. You also
get the full 50 grams of silver powder... a full 2.5 grams more silver than
before! ( v3.11) update uses less dense particles for a stronger, higher
shrinkage and smoother outcome.
Sterling Clay Powder is on hold for now as technical issues are still
being worked on. However a 96% silver mix looks to be more promising.
3D printable metal clays will be going mainstream by mid-2014, expect MCP
silver clay to supply your additive processing needs.
THESETMASTER Fulfillment LLC |