The Process  
A. Mix contents of both packets together in the included ziplock.
B. Remove and amount, and place in a non-porous container. note in grams
C. Start by adding 1 'fat' drip of water for every gram of dry powder.
D. Pinch and mix until lump together.       Wet when needed and knead in hand until claylike
E. Form your piece, and allow to completely dry,  ~usually 24 hours.
F. Start your carving, engraving.
G. Fire in the kiln at least 1250F for 30 minutes or not over 1550F for 15 minutes.
H. Allow cool, now its done! Just burnish or polish and finish your creation.
MIXING - The contents SILVER AND BINDER should be combined in total although skilled users may want to use less binder at times. Combining the powders is better done by shaking inside a medicine bottle. The mixed powder should be placed in a non-porous container, i.e. glass, plastic, or glazed ceramic BUT NOT METALLIC.  A way to remember how much water to add is simply start by adding ONE DRIP TO EVERY GRAM of dry powder (NOTE: drips from an eye dropper are a third to half the volume of a drip from a faucet). Allow powder to soak up water then begin mixing around with finger or mini spatula. Later then pinch up the mix which is quite dry but when it can lump all together, move to the palm of hand and lightly moisten when needed and continue kneading until the desired clay-like consistency is achieved. Generally 10 grams will need 4-5 minutes of kneading.  Afterwards the mixed clay should be allowed to MATURE before use by allowing to set for 15 minutes wrapped in plastic cling film. Do not allow to become too wet as it will become overly sticky and adhere to skin. Making a slip should be mixed in a small cup with 50% more water. We recommend that you do not use oils or glycerin when mixing the clay, as those will inhibit the properties of the binder. The moisten silver clay never 'sets' like cement, therefore hardened work-in-progress can simply be wetted (albeit will take a longer from a fully dried clay), but it will dissolve in water. Unused moist clay may be stored if closed tightly in plastic cling wrap. Use only room temperature water, tap is ok, better if purified water.
SHAPING - Kneading is important but under some circumstance tiny air bubbles could become trapped in the folds, make sure kneading is done with lots of squeezing.  Also it is better you flattened the clay down on a surface then cut out with a blade. While working the clay will dry out if the humidity in the workarea is less then 100%, therefore keep a wet cotton tip swab handy for moisturizing. If you're making an impression of another object onto the clay a heavy oil may be used to coat the surface of that object then the clay pressed onto that surface then released shortly thereafter.  After a shape is made coat with a slip paste to smoothen its surface. This may be done by rubbing the surface with water on your finger to smoothen out finger print impressions and fill cracks made by folds in the clay.
DRYING - Air drying the clay is best if rested on a brick or nylon mesh surface, especially if it has a decent surface area. Paper or cardboard should not be used as they will bend and warp under the moist clay. A smooth plastic or glass surface should not be used as uneven drying will make the clay warp and crack.  Using a hair blow drier or mug warmer are methods of rapid dry but still be aware of the surface the clay is upon.  Do not use a hot blow gun and never place moist or partially moist clay in kiln or use the torch. Once dried the the clay's shape can be refined with the use of a cutting tool, knife, or rotary tool.
 FIRING - Your Silver Clay Powder can be fired atop a stove or flame torch, but a kiln is highly recommended. Your pre-fired clay or green-body must be completely dry of moisture before being fired or blistering will occur. We recommend a kiln or high temp furnace over a flame because there is better control of temperature versus the unevenness of an open flame. Firing time varies with the thickness of the item and efficiency of the kiln or even-ness of the flame spread. A higher firing temp will require only a slightly less firing time. The minimum hold temp is 1250F, but less then 1550F. Rapid heating may quickly vaporize the binder, thus the clay can flake, blister, pop pieces off or crack. Small pieces of silver findings and wire as well as other silver clay objects can be fused together when kiln fired. Firing clay must be done in a ventilated area as the firing of metal clays produce smoke.

 

Metal Clay Powder?

Imagine owning the philosophers stone? Rather yet a philosophers powder in which you add water then burn in fire, and finally emerge an object of solid silver beauty.  You now have the power to transform mud into an object formed of fine silver.  The main ingredient is pure silver metal, along with organic binder and water.  When the product is fully air-dried, and fired at the appropriate temperature and time, the finished product will have great strength, and will take a polish just as any other silver metal object.


The purpose of the MCP?

Metal Clay Powder is supplied in two parts: a Silver pack and a Binder pack.  Some artist desire a binderless pure silver medium for designated projects while others want a versatile clay with almost indefinite shelf life. MCP is a value alternative enabling you to create larger artistic sculpture and maximize profit margin.


The advantage of metal clay powder?

MCP only needs water to bring it to life. Even hardened unused clay can be brought back to life with just a few drops of water.  If you have made a mistake such as your work-in-progress got cracked or broke, you can make a thin clay paste, and actually cement-together the pieces.  Or if you misspelled a chiseled out letter, just fill in with clay and make it right this time! Or say you destroyed your work-in-progress, simply dissolve it in a few drops of water then you have clay once again.  MCP has almost unlimited shelf life. To prolong the effectiveness of the binder it should always be kept in its bag and away from dampness.


What warnings?

Metal Clay Powder is non-poisonous, but then again a lot of silver powder in your system isn't good for anyone. The burning of the clay will sustain a flame for a short time, so keep clear of open flames and sparks.  Artisans should wear dusts mask and glasses if carving with a high speed rotary tool or powered sander/grinder. Improperly fired clay can pop and send chips flying.  MCP (moist) should not 'stay' in contact with other metal surfaces except silver or gold.  The clay powder does not contain mercury, lead ...only metal is Silver.  Don't burn plastics or melt away wax in a kiln. 

 

Recommended tools and equipment:

Kiln capable of holding temperature of 1250F
digital gram scale for weighing
8oz dish for mixing
mixing rod
a brick
eye protection

Optional equipment

latex gloves
particulate mask
carving tools
timer 


Project Ideas?

Make unique jewelry
Board game pieces
Key ring fobs
Trophies

Chess pieces
Ink pen cases
Fingerprint Charms
Sculptures
Models
Amulets
Utensils
Candle holders
Furniture accents
Clothing accents
Buttons
Handles
RPG figurines
Dollhouse accessories
Awards
Silver pottery
Ornaments
Belt buckles

 

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  Silver powder is the most valued ingredient, generally valued four times higher than market price for silver. We developed a method to make and dry the silver powders quickly and efficiently. The silver used in MCP is over 99.9% fine silver. The binder is made of a cellulose fiber derivative and modified corn starch. MCP can be used in conjunction with or as a slip with other available silver clays.  MCP will shrink during the drying phase as water can contribute over ten percent of the clay mass.  As it dries it will become smaller and denser.

Silver melting point is above 1700F however silver may appear to melt at a temp just above 1500F. Silver has the property of being the most thermally conductive of all metals thus it heats and cools rapidly. MCP being fired will produce smoke, soot, and sustain a flame just as any clays on market. MCP never 'sets' like cement, therefore work-in-progress can simply be moistened and reworked.  MCP 96% silver weight. Each pack of Metal Clay Powder contains 50 grams or 1.61 troy oz fine silver. MCP fired will also shrink an additional approximate 12% linear. 

 
Comparison of MCP to other silver clays of 50 grams sizes. Approximate prices as of early 2013
Model Make % Silver as supplied Firing temp / time
PMC+ Precious Metal Clay 90% Ag -5g silver 20min @ 1550F / 30 min @1450F
PMC3 Precious Metal Clay 90% Ag 30min @ 1200F / 10 min @1400F
Art Clay Silver Art Clay 92% Ag 30min @ 1200F / 10 min or 1400F
MCP Metal Clay Powder 100% Ag + 5% organic 30min @ 1250F / 20 min or 1550F
 
 

A More Workable Clay?

Once you have mixed your MCP silver999, you can knead in a drip or two of hand soap or Dawn liquid detergent (a soap free of phosphates and bleach).  This will increase drying time a bit but more importantly the clay will be softer more like hard cheese when fully dry allowing carving to be performed with a less risk of breaking or chipping.

Make a Base Mold:

A base mold is a form at which you will use as a basis to make your clay object on... similar to how a dressmaker use a form to measure patterns on.  The lowest cost base mold is made from ordinary beach sand.  First you should choose the sand, and sieve through a strainer to get the smallest possible grain size.  Wash this sand well in a pot, if possible boil the sand to wash and rinse away all salts, and debris. Now dry the sand by heating on stove or oven in a glass pot. Allow to cool then sieve this sand and place in a jar for storage.  To make the base mold, obtain methyl cellulose, tapioca, or modified grain starch and one heaping tablespoon should be enough for a coffee cup of sand. Add in small amounts of water until you can shape the sand easily into the shape you desire. Allow this to dry then form your metal clay around or on this sand mold and allow to dry on the mold.  If your metal clay object can easily be removed from the mold then take it off prior to placing in kiln; if not then place the clay object including base mold and fire at the required temperature for the metal clay.  Once cooled, the sand mold will fall to free flowing sand again at which can be discarded.  This is especially useful method when making hollow forms and larger 3D objects. There are fancy other products available including hollow glass spheres and carbon which shrinks too, all work well, but nothing beats sand price-wise.

 Wood Workers and Carpenters: Imagine Metallic Silver Inlay!

MCP can  be used as inlay.  Since the binders are made of plant based products, the clay will easily fuse hard to routed; either hand routed or laser routed wood. Sand it down once dried and buff the silver along with the wood surface then protect with linseed or a varnish.  This of course requires no burning, kiln, or firing and shrinkage around 7%.

Pottery & Plaster & Clay Artist:

MCP can be fired along with some pottery works, or unfired as a coating for plaster. It may also work as an inlay for low temperature cured polymer clay art.  Imagine the luster of silver to give a bas-relief a cameo appearance. Or s'grafitto with silver layers.

Silver Smiths' Metal Clay Powder (v1)was first introduced mid 2006 as the first silver clay to be sold in powder form. It sold for only half the price other commercially available ready made silver clays.  Version 2.1 ran the span of 2007 to 2009.
From 2009 to 2013 Silver Smiths' Metal Clay Powder (v2.2) Indicative of its 'MCP' label.  The clay has put on bit of a tan... it appear darker due to silver powders used with oxide layer. The change in binder allowed for a very dense dried clay and fire more thorough in the same amount of time for the piece.
Update: MCP v2.3 effective Jan 21, 2013 Silver Smiths' Metal Clay Powder has an additional modified starch ingredient added to its binder.  The binder component weight to silver remain unchanged. Most artisans will not find any apparent change to the MCP.  Binder update from a sodium base to a lithium base, this is believe to enhance the particles charge allowing silver particles to stick together more closely thus requiring even less water. It also represents the densest of all silver green clay a 15% advantage over Art Clay Silver 650.  
The New MCP! Now called  Metal Clay Powder SILVER 999, MCP v3.  This update comes with all new packaging that is lightweight and takes up less space.  A hybrid silver component and an all new binder mixture.  You also get the full 50 grams of silver powder... a full 2.5 grams more silver than before!
Coming Soon:  Metal Clay Powder Sterling SILVER 925,  Similar in packaging to MCP SILVER 999.  This is a silver clay that will have to be fired in a manner similar to 'base' metal clays that are available.

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